Learn How To Make Solar Power Work for You
By: Linda Allen
There has never been a better time than now to take advantage of the numerous benefits of solar power. Many states have made solar power affordable, cost effective, providing a 10% return on investment and in many cases solar power will pay for itself almost instantly. The utilization of solar power has never offered more benefits than now. Not only can the installation of solar power pay for itself almost instantly, but given the current world political climate and the threat of terrorist actions to disrupt cheap oil supplies make it very prudent. Many states offer a 10% return on investments to encourage its use.
The simple fact is that installing a solar electric system in your home is now cost effective for the first time. And you’ll sleep better at night knowing that you have now become part of the energy solution as world oil supplies continue to dwindle. In the state of California the cost of solar power in 1978 was well over $300 per watt. Today, with incentives offered by the state, that price has now dropped to less than $6 per watt- a staggering 98% reduction in cost of solar energy. In addition to the reduction in cost of installing a solar power system, your home’s value increases $20 for every $1 reduction in annual utility bills- this according to the National Appraisal Institute. Therefore, installing a solar power system in your home costing $16,000 would increase you home’s value by $17,520. That’s a net gain of $1520 the day you install the system.
On April 25, 1950 Bell Laboratories introduced the first silicon solar cell. Bell called its invention “The first successful device (solar cell) to convert useful amounts of the sun’s energy directly into electricity.” The NY Times heralded it as “The beginning of a New Era, leading eventually to the realization of one of mankind’s most cherished dreams-The harnessing of the almost limitless energy of the sun for uses of civilization.” 99% of the world’s energy comes from sunlight or solar energy. Everyday enough free sunlight energy falls on the Earth to supply our energy needs for 4-5 years at our present rate of consumption. At the equator, the Sun provides 1000 Watts per square meter on the Earth’s surface. The amount of solar energy we take today in no way diminishes the amount we can take tomorrow or any time in the future.
About The Author
Linda Allen has been environmentally conscious all her adult life. In addition she has been an advocate of healthy living for many years. She and her husband are currently designing a house that will be totally solar and wind power. She is the creator of http://SolarEnergyAssociation.com where she offers expert advice and information on the latest solar advances, systems and residential installations.
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Home Framing
Simple Layout And Framing Of Walls
By: Mike Merisko
Framing walls is known in construction as rough carpentry. This has always seemed to me as a contradiction of terms. The framing holds the skin (drywall, sheathing, siding) and has the buildings life lines running through it (plumbing, electric, heating, A/C, telephone, and cable). Like the skeleton is to a body, as are framed walls to a house.
When laying out walls, care must be taken as to where they are placed. Finishes that will be applied must be considered in the mix. If a room is to finish 12' x 12' and the wall finish is 1/2" drywall, then the rough (there's that word again) dimension between walls must be 12'1" x12'1".
Wall stud placement must also be considered. They cannot be placed just anywhere. To understand how important this placement is, one must know the materials that are applied to the framing. Most common building materials come in 4 x 8 sheets. These sheets are usually applied with the 4' horizontal and the 8' vertical. The most common layout for wall framing is 16" centers. When laid out and framed correctly, the edge of the drywall or sheathing will break on the center of the studs in 4' increments.
The first step to laying out a wall is to find 2 straight 2x4s and cut them to the length of the wall. Your now ready for the stud layout. If your building perpendicular to an existing wall, lay the 2x4 plates next to each other and flush the ends. Hook your tape measure on one of the plates and make your first mark at 15 and 1/4". This will be the leading edge of your first stud. This puts the center of the stud at 16". Continue marking the rest of the wall studs in the same manner. The next one would be at 31 and 1/4", then 47and1/4", then 63 and 1/4" and so on. This puts the center of the studs at 32", 48", and 64". Most tape measures have 16" centers highlighted in a color to make this easier. Once you have your stud locations marked, use a square (combination or speed) to draw a line across both plates. Put an "X" to the right side of this line. This indicates where the stud goes.
If there are doors, windows or wall intersections in the wall, these get laid out first. Sixteen inch centers are then laid out. Door and window openings can be moved so its stud or cripple stud is on the 16 o.c. layout. This saves or eliminates a stud.
Framing follows the same rules. Frame wall intersections first, then door and window openings. It can be tough to frame these items if the wall studs are in the way.
Wall layout is a simple process and once you do it a couple times you'll see just how easy it is. It will become even more clear if you also install the drywall or sheathing also. It can be a nightmare if the layout is wrong and the edges of the material aren't breaking on the center of the studs.
A certain amount of care and precision must be taken to avoid not having material breaking in the studs.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com/
Framing walls is known in construction as rough carpentry. This has always seemed to me as a contradiction of terms. The framing holds the skin (drywall, sheathing, siding) and has the buildings life lines running through it (plumbing, electric, heating, A/C, telephone, and cable). Like the skeleton is to a body, as are framed walls to a house.
When laying out walls, care must be taken as to where they are placed. Finishes that will be applied must be considered in the mix. If a room is to finish 12' x 12' and the wall finish is 1/2" drywall, then the rough (there's that word again) dimension between walls must be 12'1" x12'1".
Wall stud placement must also be considered. They cannot be placed just anywhere. To understand how important this placement is, one must know the materials that are applied to the framing. Most common building materials come in 4 x 8 sheets. These sheets are usually applied with the 4' horizontal and the 8' vertical. The most common layout for wall framing is 16" centers. When laid out and framed correctly, the edge of the drywall or sheathing will break on the center of the studs in 4' increments.
The first step to laying out a wall is to find 2 straight 2x4s and cut them to the length of the wall. Your now ready for the stud layout. If your building perpendicular to an existing wall, lay the 2x4 plates next to each other and flush the ends. Hook your tape measure on one of the plates and make your first mark at 15 and 1/4". This will be the leading edge of your first stud. This puts the center of the stud at 16". Continue marking the rest of the wall studs in the same manner. The next one would be at 31 and 1/4", then 47and1/4", then 63 and 1/4" and so on. This puts the center of the studs at 32", 48", and 64". Most tape measures have 16" centers highlighted in a color to make this easier. Once you have your stud locations marked, use a square (combination or speed) to draw a line across both plates. Put an "X" to the right side of this line. This indicates where the stud goes.
If there are doors, windows or wall intersections in the wall, these get laid out first. Sixteen inch centers are then laid out. Door and window openings can be moved so its stud or cripple stud is on the 16 o.c. layout. This saves or eliminates a stud.
Framing follows the same rules. Frame wall intersections first, then door and window openings. It can be tough to frame these items if the wall studs are in the way.
Wall layout is a simple process and once you do it a couple times you'll see just how easy it is. It will become even more clear if you also install the drywall or sheathing also. It can be a nightmare if the layout is wrong and the edges of the material aren't breaking on the center of the studs.
A certain amount of care and precision must be taken to avoid not having material breaking in the studs.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com/
Sunday, March 9, 2008
How To Choose Window Frames
Choosing Window Frames
There are three main types of material used to manufacture window frames. These are aluminium, PVC-u and wood. These are also vinyl-coated and fibreglass frames, but for simplicity at this stage we shall stick to the three main types. The three materials each have their strengths and weaknesses and in this article we shall look at the several properties to see how each type shapes up. The properties we look at are heat insulation, sound insulation, security, appearance, maintenance and least but definitely not least, cost. We shall also briefly talk about the different styles of windows commonly available today.
Heat insulation is perhaps the most common reason for getting double-glazing. However, if the frame is not right the insulation provided by double-glazing is lost. The worst conductors of heat and therefore the best insulators are wood and PVC-u. Aluminium is a relatively good conductor of heat and so is not the best material if this is of primary concern.
The protection against sound is another great attribute of double-glazing and their isn’t really a clear winner. The relative sound insulation properties are therefore of lesser concern that those of say heat.
Security is always a concern and here we have a clear winner. Aluminium is extremely strong and is the material of choice where security is of major concern. This explains why aluminium is commonly seen on commercial premises. Wood and PVC-u have their weak spots. PVC-u expands during hot temperatures and the expansion gaps required can become weak points for intruders.
Another area that has a clear leader is appearance. Wooden frames are easily the most attractive frames. The timeless appeal of wood suits both modern and period properties. In particular, for period properties it is almost mandatory to have traditional looking frames and in particular sash windows. The appearance of the properties can be undermined with PVC-u frames or cheap looking fake wood finishes.
Although wooden frames are the most pleasing on the eye they are also the hardest work. Older frames require a significant amount of attention to prolong their life. The newer wooden frames are treated before being shipped to retailers but they still require the attention. Regular coats of protective paints are needed every four or five years. PVC-u and aluminium frame require very little maintenance and can be cleaned with just an occasional wipe with a damp cloth.
Finally, we look at the cost of the different types of frames. Generally speaking, the cheapest are PVC-u frames, followed by aluminium and finally wood are the most expensive. The economic benefits of PVC-u frames combined with their excellent insulation properties go a long way to explaining their popularity.
There are many different styles of window that can be manufactured from the three materials. Casement windows, tilt and turn windows and sash windows are all made from the three materials.
Garry John has contributed to many articles to home improvement sites including double glazing
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Do It Yourself Insulation
Home Insulation – Should You ‘do It Yourself’ Or Use A Professional Contractor?
by: Alex Perry
Insulating your home well can save you a small fortune on your energy bills, by cutting the amount of heat you lose through your walls, doors and roof. But should you try to do this home improvement by yourself, or hire someone to do it? This article weighs up the pros and cons of using a professional contractor versus doing it yourself.
The Energy Saving Trust in the UK estimates that the average home can save several hundred pounds off its annual heating bills, and prevent the emission of over two tonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually, by installing insulation throughout. Insulation is the single biggest measure you can take to cut the amount of energy you use in the home. Plus this will also make the average home more comfortable by making it warmer in winter, and cooler in summer. It’s no wonder that hundreds of thousands of people a year in the UK are getting their homes insulated.
When thinking about insulating your home you are immediately faced with the choice of employing a professional contractor to do it, or attempting a bit of DIY. At first the DIY option can appear tempting. For example, some types of insulation, such as loft insulation, are not normally technically difficult to fit. The materials are readily available in most DIY stores. Plus many people automatically think that DIY is going to be cheaper than employing a professional contractor, because with a contractor you are paying for their labour.
However, in many cases they will be wrong because using a professional contractor is either cheaper or roughly the same cost as DIY. This is because installing insulation in the UK is now heavily subsidised by gas and electricity suppliers, in order that they can meet their carbon emission targets set by the government. These subsidies are funded by the power companies regardless of household income, and currently amount to between 50 and 70% of the cost of having the insulation installed. This usually means that using a contractor becomes price competitive, or in many cases even cheaper, than DIY.
Plus if you receive certain benefits from the government in the UK, you can get your insulation installed by a professional contractor completely free. This is because the government tops up the grants from the energy companies with its own subsidies to cover the entire cost of the work.
As well as financial considerations, there are other reasons why employing a professional contractor can be attractive. Firstly, some types of insulation do require special technical expertise. For example, to install cavity wall insulation – filling the space between your outer walls with insulation material - requires special machinery, as well as training. You should always use a reputable contractor for this. Although not technically difficult, installing loft insulation is often still a challenging DIY job. The working conditions in a loft are often cramped and unpleasant. Employing someone else to go up there is in many cases a much more attractive option!
As well as the technical challenges, DIY can also have a number of safety issues. For example, the mineral wool that is commonly used to insulate lofts can be hazardous. It is extremely important to handle it with care, as it can severely irritate the throat and skin. You need to wear protective clothing, including face mask, safety goggles and gloves. You also need to make sure that you do not expose the living areas of the house to the material, either when you unpack it, or dispose of any waste material.
If you use a reputable contractor, you can be sure that these issues will be taken care of, with much less hassle for you. You also know that the job will be done to a good standard, because of their training and experience. In fact, cavity wall insulation carried out by professionals in the UK comes with a 25 year guarantee if they are registered with the Cavity Wall Guarantee Agency, which most reputable firms are.
Given all of these advantages, we recommend that most people use a professional contractor to get their home insulated. It’s generally competitive on cost or cheaper than DIY, safer, less hassle, and will be done to a high standard if you choose the right contractor. There are many reputable firms who can be accessed through the Internet They will offer you a free no-obligation survey, after which you get a quotation. They also give you access to the attractive grants and subsidies mentioned above. If you like what they tell you, then you can simply go ahead and get a date booked for the work, and look forward to a warmer home and lower heating bills.
http://build-yourhome.blogspot.com/ http://carlsbadconstruction.blogspot.com/
About The Author
Alex Perry is a founder of http://www.downwithco2.co.uk/ , a site dedicated to making it easy for people to save energy and cut their personal contribution to Climate Change by giving them information and putting them in touch with companies that can help.
by: Alex Perry
Insulating your home well can save you a small fortune on your energy bills, by cutting the amount of heat you lose through your walls, doors and roof. But should you try to do this home improvement by yourself, or hire someone to do it? This article weighs up the pros and cons of using a professional contractor versus doing it yourself.
The Energy Saving Trust in the UK estimates that the average home can save several hundred pounds off its annual heating bills, and prevent the emission of over two tonnes of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere annually, by installing insulation throughout. Insulation is the single biggest measure you can take to cut the amount of energy you use in the home. Plus this will also make the average home more comfortable by making it warmer in winter, and cooler in summer. It’s no wonder that hundreds of thousands of people a year in the UK are getting their homes insulated.
When thinking about insulating your home you are immediately faced with the choice of employing a professional contractor to do it, or attempting a bit of DIY. At first the DIY option can appear tempting. For example, some types of insulation, such as loft insulation, are not normally technically difficult to fit. The materials are readily available in most DIY stores. Plus many people automatically think that DIY is going to be cheaper than employing a professional contractor, because with a contractor you are paying for their labour.
However, in many cases they will be wrong because using a professional contractor is either cheaper or roughly the same cost as DIY. This is because installing insulation in the UK is now heavily subsidised by gas and electricity suppliers, in order that they can meet their carbon emission targets set by the government. These subsidies are funded by the power companies regardless of household income, and currently amount to between 50 and 70% of the cost of having the insulation installed. This usually means that using a contractor becomes price competitive, or in many cases even cheaper, than DIY.
Plus if you receive certain benefits from the government in the UK, you can get your insulation installed by a professional contractor completely free. This is because the government tops up the grants from the energy companies with its own subsidies to cover the entire cost of the work.
As well as financial considerations, there are other reasons why employing a professional contractor can be attractive. Firstly, some types of insulation do require special technical expertise. For example, to install cavity wall insulation – filling the space between your outer walls with insulation material - requires special machinery, as well as training. You should always use a reputable contractor for this. Although not technically difficult, installing loft insulation is often still a challenging DIY job. The working conditions in a loft are often cramped and unpleasant. Employing someone else to go up there is in many cases a much more attractive option!
As well as the technical challenges, DIY can also have a number of safety issues. For example, the mineral wool that is commonly used to insulate lofts can be hazardous. It is extremely important to handle it with care, as it can severely irritate the throat and skin. You need to wear protective clothing, including face mask, safety goggles and gloves. You also need to make sure that you do not expose the living areas of the house to the material, either when you unpack it, or dispose of any waste material.
If you use a reputable contractor, you can be sure that these issues will be taken care of, with much less hassle for you. You also know that the job will be done to a good standard, because of their training and experience. In fact, cavity wall insulation carried out by professionals in the UK comes with a 25 year guarantee if they are registered with the Cavity Wall Guarantee Agency, which most reputable firms are.
Given all of these advantages, we recommend that most people use a professional contractor to get their home insulated. It’s generally competitive on cost or cheaper than DIY, safer, less hassle, and will be done to a high standard if you choose the right contractor. There are many reputable firms who can be accessed through the Internet They will offer you a free no-obligation survey, after which you get a quotation. They also give you access to the attractive grants and subsidies mentioned above. If you like what they tell you, then you can simply go ahead and get a date booked for the work, and look forward to a warmer home and lower heating bills.
http://build-yourhome.blogspot.com/ http://carlsbadconstruction.blogspot.com/
About The Author
Alex Perry is a founder of http://www.downwithco2.co.uk/ , a site dedicated to making it easy for people to save energy and cut their personal contribution to Climate Change by giving them information and putting them in touch with companies that can help.
Thursday, December 6, 2007
New Trends in Clad Wood Windows
Simply put windows...are what you put in the holes in your house. Think about that. Holes in your house. It seems to me that if you are going to have holes in your house, you want a very good quality window to prevent the those holes from letting the conditioned air out and the cold air in and rain from destroying the interior of your house.
Their are three basic categories of windows:
- Wood
- Aluminum
- Vinyl
Wood windows are made of wood, (primarily pine) but are sold primarily with a cladding on the exterior to reduce the exterior maintenance requirements that attach to all windows (no painting). The cladding is typically Aluminum, however their are increasing options in this regard in the form of extruded and sheet noble metal claddings such as Bronze, Copper and Zinc.
The last 3 materials are generally sold only on custom windows which are very expensive and typically can only be justified on hard budgets of over $ 400 PSF. If your like me (and most others) you will not be building a home in this range.
However, there are a few copper alternatives manufactured by commodity window manufacturer's that might in fact fit into your budget. I will discuss these in greater detail in a later post. Anyway back to clad wood windows.
The best known names in this field (due to huge marketing budgets) are Anderson, Pella, Weathershield, Jeld-Wen and Marvin. They probably comprise about 65% market share between them and each of them have their own specific advantages and disadvantages. Only a careful review of the features and benefits of each window will reveal what is best for your project. A brief description of the features that I consider important when reviewing the various windows follows below:
Anderson - unique in that the wood window made by Anderson is clad with a PVC vinyl cladding. The cladding is bound to the wood substrate with an adhesive type mechanism which has shown effective, but in some extreme climates worries me that it could detach.
The window is backed by a top-notch warranty and I have anecdotal experience that the company takes its warranty obligations seriously. A good thing indeed. There was manufacturing problem with the welding of the corners of the vinyl cladding some years back on a lot of windows that made its way to Colorado. I was selling Anderson windows at that time and know that the Company spent a very healthy sum of money to find the windows with the problem and fix them before the owners knew there was a problem. It is not that usual to see this kind of pro-active attitude in any company.
The other features of the window include a proprietary glazing system that will require that you will always have to go the Anderson for replacement and a reticence by the company to put breather tubes in their glazing system (critical in high altitudes). Anderson is the largest manufacturers of windows (under one brand) in the U.S. Anderson sells their product through a dealer network composed of lumber yards, window dealers and home-improvement contractors. Anderson mow also sells a line of composite windows made from the waste wood derived from manufacturing its wood windows,
Pella – Pella manufacturers windows clad and unclad in Iowa and markets them through primarily authorized distributors although they have recently started to distribute their builder grade line through Home Depot. The Pella product is distinguished by the availability of buit-in roll-down insect screens, between-the-glass window blinds and and an exclusive distributorship for the clearest window screening material made in the United States.
Pella's clad system is roll-formed and loosely attached which can cause problems such as “oil-canning” in very hot climates and the possibility of condensation forming underneath the cladding in high-humidity locales leading to rot of the underlying sash. Otherwise Pella makes good quality window. Pella now manufactures a line of composite windows which show promise from a performance perspective.
Jeld-Wen - sells wood windows under a variety of brand names including Jeld-Wen, Pozzi, Wilmar and a few others. All of these brands were more or less regionally well-known brands and Jeld-Wen has made a weak effort to unify the brands either from a marketing perspective or from a manufacturing perspective from what I can tell. The various brands have quality reputations that you will have to judge for yourself. The Jeld-Wen moniker is a holding company for a broad range of construction products that make Jeld-Wen a very large presence in the construction products category, a great many of them in the commodity category. They are an excellent manufacturer.
Marvin – is an old line family owned firm that manufactures a broad line of wood windows and composite windows. One of the distinguishing features of the Marvin brand is that the aluminum clad version is actually an extruded aluminum sash with a Wood insert to the interior. This scenario is also a feature of the Weathershield line and the Window Technologies line in the Midwest. This method makes for a more rigid sash, and eliminates the possibility of oil-canning and reduces the chances of moisture forming under the cladding. It also places a barrier dead air space underneath the sash which should add somewhat to its performance in cold climates.
These are the (4) largest manufacturers of wood windows in the United States based on market share. The relative value of their products is affected by a range of factors that will make your choice dependent on your specific needs. There are also a great many regional manufacturers that make good quality windows that will be equally prevalent in your locale. I will discuss those in another post.
My personal selection for the highest quality wood clad window available would be Loewen Windows. Loewen is a Canadian company that is based in the far Northwest so I am not sure you will find them widely distributed in your area of the country. A few things that distinguish the design of the Loewen is that it is built out of Vertical Grained Doug Fir which is a moderately durable wood (better than pine) and is more beautiful than pine if you are staining the interior.
The window also is designed to meet the Canadian standards for Air infiltration which are the toughest in this hemisphere. The window is very well made and they are still a small enough company that customer desires and satisfaction are central to the operation of the company. I would highly recommend them.
Randy Covington has over 30 years experience in construction. Formerly Licensed as a Residential Builder in Florida and an unlimited General Contractor in South Carolina, he has built small commercial and residential projects in the Southeast and West. Randy has spent the last 15 years selling construction products from lumber to custom windows with Bronze and Copper cladding to some of the most expensive residences on the planet. If you have question on constructing your own home or on windows, or need to source something really unusual for your home, you may reach him at www.myhomespace.biz or at rancov@yahoo.com.
An Introduction to Brick Building
Fired clay bricks remain one of the most enduring building materials known to the world wide building industry. Some might argue that it is also one of the most beautiful and that it adds character to any building with its colour, strength and texture. Clay brick dates as far back as the Egyptian age and connects us with the history of our ancestors.
Being such a versatile building material and because of its very good climatic characteristics, it remains the material of choice for residential buildings in South Africa. Bricks have an excellent fire rating, it is weatherproof and has really good acoustic properties and is almost soundproof, and best of all it amount to only about 10 per cent of the total cost of a typical residential building. Homebuyers will almost always prefer to buy a house constructed out of clay brick as it does not deteriorate over time and has a higher resale value.
Bricks vary quite significantly in because of the diverse manufacturing processes and types of clay used in their manufacture in various regions. Often potential home builders make the mistake in thinking that all bricks are the same and there is no need to shop around for different finishes and colours. This can be costly as the quality of different brick manufacturers vary considerably as will also be reflected in the price. A very cheap brick might be of un-even size or may warp making building with them a lot more difficult.
Face brick
The use of face brick is often used in residential architecture for its low maintenance properties and often the aesthetics is overlooked completely. Face brick can be very aesthetically pleasing with its rustic look and a good architect might combine face brick with plastered areas to come to more a balanced aesthetic as face brick in its single form can be a bit overwhelming. When opting to build with face brick make sure you appoint a good builder with a good face brick portfolio as the jointing of a face brick wall can make or break the aesthetic of this type of construction. Also make sure you order sufficient bricks the first time as, because it being a natural material can vary noticeably per batch.
Cement bricks
These bricks are similar to a clay stock (plaster) brick but are more often used in regions where clay might be in short supply. There is usually not a big price difference between cement and clay plaster bricks and cement brick is mostly used as a substitute. When ordering cement bricks make sure that they are properly cured and dry before using them. If more that 5 per cent breaks upon delivery, have a knowledgeable person check the quality of the bricks.
Plaster (Stock) bricks
Cheaper than face bricks, a plaster brick still is manufactured to high standards to ensure uniformity of size and structure, but have to be plastered and painted thereby cancelling out the cost saving and has to be maintained at fairly regular intervals. Often great aesthetics can be achieved by combining plastered walls with face brick walls.
Written by Jere Botes, architect & founder of http://www.dreamhouses.co.za, a website dedicated to provide home builders, home renovators, home owners & developers with free professional advice on all aspects of home design, building & diy. Reproductions of this article are encouraged but must include a link pointing to http://www.dreamhouses.co.za
How To Use Your Home Equity Line Of Credit For Home Remodeling
A home equity line of credit is a great way to fund your home remodeling and improvement additions. Here are some ways that a HELOC makes the perfect choice. First, you may be asking why you should consider using a home equity line of credit for these projects?
-You only use the funds as you need them. There is no lump sum sitting in your account that you have to pay interest on.
-You only have to pay interest on the money borrowed.
-Using the funds is as simple as writing a check.
-A HELOC's interest may be tax deductible.
You can use a HELOC for anything you wish, but a home remodeling job is ideal. It not only adds equity to your home, but you are able to enjoy the updates at the same time.
With a home equity line of credit you can write out checks for things like:
- Contractor fees
- Tools and supplies
- New furniture
So, these are some of the many reasons why a home equity line of credit makes good sense when you are considering remodeling your home.
The only thing a HELOC won't do for you is the actual remodeling work. You'll have to do that yourself.
All Rights Reserved Worldwide. Reprint Rights: This article may be freely reprinted or distributed in its entirety in any ezine, newsletter, blog or website. The author's name, bio and website links must remain intact and be included with every reproduction.
You can learn more about a Home Equity Line Of Credit And Home Remodeling as well as more information on everything to do with home equity loans and home equity lines of credit by visiting http://www.HomeEquityLoansA-z.com
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