Learn How To Make Solar Power Work for You
By: Linda Allen
There has never been a better time than now to take advantage of the numerous benefits of solar power. Many states have made solar power affordable, cost effective, providing a 10% return on investment and in many cases solar power will pay for itself almost instantly. The utilization of solar power has never offered more benefits than now. Not only can the installation of solar power pay for itself almost instantly, but given the current world political climate and the threat of terrorist actions to disrupt cheap oil supplies make it very prudent. Many states offer a 10% return on investments to encourage its use.
The simple fact is that installing a solar electric system in your home is now cost effective for the first time. And you’ll sleep better at night knowing that you have now become part of the energy solution as world oil supplies continue to dwindle. In the state of California the cost of solar power in 1978 was well over $300 per watt. Today, with incentives offered by the state, that price has now dropped to less than $6 per watt- a staggering 98% reduction in cost of solar energy. In addition to the reduction in cost of installing a solar power system, your home’s value increases $20 for every $1 reduction in annual utility bills- this according to the National Appraisal Institute. Therefore, installing a solar power system in your home costing $16,000 would increase you home’s value by $17,520. That’s a net gain of $1520 the day you install the system.
On April 25, 1950 Bell Laboratories introduced the first silicon solar cell. Bell called its invention “The first successful device (solar cell) to convert useful amounts of the sun’s energy directly into electricity.” The NY Times heralded it as “The beginning of a New Era, leading eventually to the realization of one of mankind’s most cherished dreams-The harnessing of the almost limitless energy of the sun for uses of civilization.” 99% of the world’s energy comes from sunlight or solar energy. Everyday enough free sunlight energy falls on the Earth to supply our energy needs for 4-5 years at our present rate of consumption. At the equator, the Sun provides 1000 Watts per square meter on the Earth’s surface. The amount of solar energy we take today in no way diminishes the amount we can take tomorrow or any time in the future.
About The Author
Linda Allen has been environmentally conscious all her adult life. In addition she has been an advocate of healthy living for many years. She and her husband are currently designing a house that will be totally solar and wind power. She is the creator of http://SolarEnergyAssociation.com where she offers expert advice and information on the latest solar advances, systems and residential installations.
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Home Framing
Simple Layout And Framing Of Walls
By: Mike Merisko
Framing walls is known in construction as rough carpentry. This has always seemed to me as a contradiction of terms. The framing holds the skin (drywall, sheathing, siding) and has the buildings life lines running through it (plumbing, electric, heating, A/C, telephone, and cable). Like the skeleton is to a body, as are framed walls to a house.
When laying out walls, care must be taken as to where they are placed. Finishes that will be applied must be considered in the mix. If a room is to finish 12' x 12' and the wall finish is 1/2" drywall, then the rough (there's that word again) dimension between walls must be 12'1" x12'1".
Wall stud placement must also be considered. They cannot be placed just anywhere. To understand how important this placement is, one must know the materials that are applied to the framing. Most common building materials come in 4 x 8 sheets. These sheets are usually applied with the 4' horizontal and the 8' vertical. The most common layout for wall framing is 16" centers. When laid out and framed correctly, the edge of the drywall or sheathing will break on the center of the studs in 4' increments.
The first step to laying out a wall is to find 2 straight 2x4s and cut them to the length of the wall. Your now ready for the stud layout. If your building perpendicular to an existing wall, lay the 2x4 plates next to each other and flush the ends. Hook your tape measure on one of the plates and make your first mark at 15 and 1/4". This will be the leading edge of your first stud. This puts the center of the stud at 16". Continue marking the rest of the wall studs in the same manner. The next one would be at 31 and 1/4", then 47and1/4", then 63 and 1/4" and so on. This puts the center of the studs at 32", 48", and 64". Most tape measures have 16" centers highlighted in a color to make this easier. Once you have your stud locations marked, use a square (combination or speed) to draw a line across both plates. Put an "X" to the right side of this line. This indicates where the stud goes.
If there are doors, windows or wall intersections in the wall, these get laid out first. Sixteen inch centers are then laid out. Door and window openings can be moved so its stud or cripple stud is on the 16 o.c. layout. This saves or eliminates a stud.
Framing follows the same rules. Frame wall intersections first, then door and window openings. It can be tough to frame these items if the wall studs are in the way.
Wall layout is a simple process and once you do it a couple times you'll see just how easy it is. It will become even more clear if you also install the drywall or sheathing also. It can be a nightmare if the layout is wrong and the edges of the material aren't breaking on the center of the studs.
A certain amount of care and precision must be taken to avoid not having material breaking in the studs.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com/
Framing walls is known in construction as rough carpentry. This has always seemed to me as a contradiction of terms. The framing holds the skin (drywall, sheathing, siding) and has the buildings life lines running through it (plumbing, electric, heating, A/C, telephone, and cable). Like the skeleton is to a body, as are framed walls to a house.
When laying out walls, care must be taken as to where they are placed. Finishes that will be applied must be considered in the mix. If a room is to finish 12' x 12' and the wall finish is 1/2" drywall, then the rough (there's that word again) dimension between walls must be 12'1" x12'1".
Wall stud placement must also be considered. They cannot be placed just anywhere. To understand how important this placement is, one must know the materials that are applied to the framing. Most common building materials come in 4 x 8 sheets. These sheets are usually applied with the 4' horizontal and the 8' vertical. The most common layout for wall framing is 16" centers. When laid out and framed correctly, the edge of the drywall or sheathing will break on the center of the studs in 4' increments.
The first step to laying out a wall is to find 2 straight 2x4s and cut them to the length of the wall. Your now ready for the stud layout. If your building perpendicular to an existing wall, lay the 2x4 plates next to each other and flush the ends. Hook your tape measure on one of the plates and make your first mark at 15 and 1/4". This will be the leading edge of your first stud. This puts the center of the stud at 16". Continue marking the rest of the wall studs in the same manner. The next one would be at 31 and 1/4", then 47and1/4", then 63 and 1/4" and so on. This puts the center of the studs at 32", 48", and 64". Most tape measures have 16" centers highlighted in a color to make this easier. Once you have your stud locations marked, use a square (combination or speed) to draw a line across both plates. Put an "X" to the right side of this line. This indicates where the stud goes.
If there are doors, windows or wall intersections in the wall, these get laid out first. Sixteen inch centers are then laid out. Door and window openings can be moved so its stud or cripple stud is on the 16 o.c. layout. This saves or eliminates a stud.
Framing follows the same rules. Frame wall intersections first, then door and window openings. It can be tough to frame these items if the wall studs are in the way.
Wall layout is a simple process and once you do it a couple times you'll see just how easy it is. It will become even more clear if you also install the drywall or sheathing also. It can be a nightmare if the layout is wrong and the edges of the material aren't breaking on the center of the studs.
A certain amount of care and precision must be taken to avoid not having material breaking in the studs.
(c) 2005 Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com/
Sunday, March 9, 2008
How To Choose Window Frames
Choosing Window Frames
There are three main types of material used to manufacture window frames. These are aluminium, PVC-u and wood. These are also vinyl-coated and fibreglass frames, but for simplicity at this stage we shall stick to the three main types. The three materials each have their strengths and weaknesses and in this article we shall look at the several properties to see how each type shapes up. The properties we look at are heat insulation, sound insulation, security, appearance, maintenance and least but definitely not least, cost. We shall also briefly talk about the different styles of windows commonly available today.
Heat insulation is perhaps the most common reason for getting double-glazing. However, if the frame is not right the insulation provided by double-glazing is lost. The worst conductors of heat and therefore the best insulators are wood and PVC-u. Aluminium is a relatively good conductor of heat and so is not the best material if this is of primary concern.
The protection against sound is another great attribute of double-glazing and their isn’t really a clear winner. The relative sound insulation properties are therefore of lesser concern that those of say heat.
Security is always a concern and here we have a clear winner. Aluminium is extremely strong and is the material of choice where security is of major concern. This explains why aluminium is commonly seen on commercial premises. Wood and PVC-u have their weak spots. PVC-u expands during hot temperatures and the expansion gaps required can become weak points for intruders.
Another area that has a clear leader is appearance. Wooden frames are easily the most attractive frames. The timeless appeal of wood suits both modern and period properties. In particular, for period properties it is almost mandatory to have traditional looking frames and in particular sash windows. The appearance of the properties can be undermined with PVC-u frames or cheap looking fake wood finishes.
Although wooden frames are the most pleasing on the eye they are also the hardest work. Older frames require a significant amount of attention to prolong their life. The newer wooden frames are treated before being shipped to retailers but they still require the attention. Regular coats of protective paints are needed every four or five years. PVC-u and aluminium frame require very little maintenance and can be cleaned with just an occasional wipe with a damp cloth.
Finally, we look at the cost of the different types of frames. Generally speaking, the cheapest are PVC-u frames, followed by aluminium and finally wood are the most expensive. The economic benefits of PVC-u frames combined with their excellent insulation properties go a long way to explaining their popularity.
There are many different styles of window that can be manufactured from the three materials. Casement windows, tilt and turn windows and sash windows are all made from the three materials.
Garry John has contributed to many articles to home improvement sites including double glazing
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